Second Post SA
2007.01.21
We have just ended our first week in Port Elizabeth and things seem to be shaping up satisfactorily. Some things such as computer connections and getting instructors and some early tours are going a little slower than we hoped but I think it will all come together when it needs to. Here are some additional observations so far.
Before we came down to South Africa, we knew that it was an unusual country. It is a combination of first (developed) and third (underdeveloped) world all in one. This was driven home Thursday when we got up took showers and boiled water for tea and coffee all with out incident. However, when we started to drive toward NMMU, we noted that all the traffic lights were off. At first we thought that it was a local outage but no they were off at the University as well. This day and age no electricity equals no work. Everyone has a computer and they don’t work worth a damn without it. It was suppose to last two hours but it lasted four. During the evening we learned that it was a power problem in the entire distribution system for the country. They expected it to continue and they would try to spread the outages around. Now our office is on the 16th floor of the Main building with four elevators. I would have been willing to trudge up the stairs but with the computers not working there was no point. One of the women in the Centre for International Education said, “This is why South Africans have to be tough.”
An aside from Norma: I need a good junior high school student who can walk around with me and can tell me what is the name of that tree or this bird or do I tip the parking lot attendant and where can I find ripe mangoes and what is that strange ship coming into port carrying (most so far have been container vessels which have a very fast unload and load times) and where can you buy flip-flops so we can walk on the beach. To whom do I give the little handshake that entails shaking hands, grabbing thumbs and then something else which I don’t get yet? Why are newspapers so large? They feel like at least 10 inches wider than I am used to. They make my arms tired just holding it out to read…but at least they have a comic section with Dagwood and Blondie and Hagar the Horrible.
We have eaten lots of fish, squid (we saw at least 3 squid boats with their bright lights on last night), shrimp and mussels…funny but no scallops that we have encountered yet. We have had a vegetable curry pie and lots of salad…interesting that there weren’t many lettuces…iceberg predominates. I can buy Lays potato chips in an incredible array of flavors. Also Kellogg cereal is here but no General Mills. Bruce has not found a favorite beer yet, nor have I a grand red wine but we are persistent in our search and will let you know when we have been successful. We are also doing intense research to find the most magnificent Crème Brule in the country. There is nothing as important as on the ground research! It is a good thing that we live on the third floor and have to run up and down several times a day. [B. We are not eating except at meal times which are excellent.]
This is the end of the second week and we haven’t gotten this off yet. We have 9 students here now and expect the rest in the next two days. That has preoccupied us mostly except for the technical problems which are frustrating beyond measure. Item #1 was when the school computer went down and a bunch of emails to the profs disappeared. My account at Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University doesn’t function yet. We do have the laptop and a desk computer but only one active network connection (there are three connectors that don’t work). Then the PDA locked up and we are glad that we are backed up on the PC. Then we went to download the new pictures from our new camera and there is a glitch that won’t let us. Did I mention that I left my jump drive at the internet café…at least it was still there when I got back. We were trying to bring up another cell phone that we had from Jessica and Todd’s adventure in Spain but it is locked up for networks here and doesn’t seem usable at least no one here can open it.
Then there is the matter of the bank. It could be a novel in its own right. We went to the branch bank where the program has an account. We activated that and had a check from the program to put into it. The branch couldn’t handle a large check in U.S. currency…we needed to go to the Walmer Park Branch. So we go there. They can’t accept the check because it is made out to Bruce and not made out to the Order of St. Benedict Inc. which is the name on the account even though we are the signed users. They suggest that we open an account in Bruce’s name, deposit it and transfer it over…Oh did mention that their computers were down and so they couldn’t do anything right then anyway. We went back to our branch to talk to the branch manager, whose name was Joy Hutton, for advice. We hoped her name was an omen of good things. We were informed that she is no longer with the bank. Bruce chatted with the teller and we will go back to Walmer Park Branch on Monday and cash the check and walk to other part of the bank and try to deposit it…God willing and the computers are working!
It is very hot and humid and we are a trifle cranky. I see a glass of red wine (for research purposes) in my future this evening!
From down and under
B & N
The next day…
We collected three more students (Yes, Peggy, Molly is here and didn’t look all the jet lagged.) with the bulk of them coming in tomorrow. We have tried off and on today to call Bruce’s sister and technology again befuddles the situation. We got a phone card but found we couldn’t activate it except during “regular business hours”. We discovered that yesterday (Saturday). We decided that we would just call anyway and pay for the call through the hotel. We dial out, get to a certain place out there in the ether and it yells, “BEEP, BEEP, BEEP”! Frustration beyond measure! The breeze has died down which means it is warm this evening! But a new thing was found today…fresh fish! Go down to the wharves where the big container ships come in and there are two fresh fish concerns. For less than three dollars I got a bit over a pound of Hake…the local deepwater fish. It was very nice!
NO PICTURES! Computer and camera are not talking more at 6:00.
Tuesday, February 6, 2007
Monday, February 5, 2007
Post 3
Saturday
Whew! We have finally met with all of our teachers and with the Aids Haven Director. We still have not met with the Pendla School Principal although we have tried. Today is Saturday and the classes begin Monday! This week we have gone through a full day orientation, an afternoon of getting ID cards and most of a day touring Port Elizabeth, a township and the Red Location Museum. The latter is a museum dedicated to the history of apartheid and the struggle against it. It was quite a heavy trip. Bradley Laveck, our colored tour leader, who helped set up the museum, could talk with experience and passion. The pre-apartheid the world was divided into whites, coloreds and blacks. We will talk more about the field trips and what we saw on our blog.
On part of our touring around we went to the Kragga Kama game reserve. We were divided up into 3 groups got up on flatbed trucks with benches. We started out and saw warthogs, a giraffe family unit, various antelopes (spring bucks, nyala, bontebuck and impala), zebras, and storks, who migrate between Europe and Africa. We went into a special enclosure and saw 8 cheetahs; three young males approached the truck very readily after the guide whistled. The people on the flatbed were told not to stand up as the animals perceive the whole truck as a unit therefore much larger prey than they could handle. We were advised that cheetahs only ate fresh meat, groom each other and had no noticeable smell. This makes them different than lions who eat fetid carcasses and actually stink. But the crowning moment came when we were observing the white rhinos who all blackish but with a square lip (This is the distinction not that they are white.). The male, all ton and ½ of him, came over and rubbed his horn on the side of the truck. The truck jostled a perceptual amount and travellers’ heart rates raised. It was a real thrill! ND
Sunday morning
It is another delightful morning but with one of those surprising happenings that occur when you stay in one place for some time. This morning the city is having bike races/tour along the Beach Road. I do not have a map of the route but the start was some place not far back down the road (maybe at Hobie Beach) and they come by here as part of the route. The first starting group was couples on tandem bicycles; second group must be the racers since they were in a tight, tense group with one brave soul willing to get out in the lead early. They are going in a circuit that takes them past us about every five minutes. There are some hills just up from the beach so they must go up and around the hill and back down to Beach Road for how many kilometers I do not know. I can tell when they are going by because it is like a swarm of soft sounding bees whirling past. With the street blocked off the area is quiet save for the waves breaking on the beach and some bird sounds. It was low tide this morning and the waves were dumping so you would hear the sudden crash as it tumbles over itself.
Port Elizabeth is a very windy city. One hears that Cape Town is windy but so is P.E. and we can confirm it. It was quiet this morning at the start of the race but as I sit at our dining table in the living room looking out on to the Indian Ocean, I can see the wind coming up. It is blowing the spray from the waves back out to sea. I would imagine the racers are not happy for it but those who live here must expect it. The swarm is getting more and more spread out so the angry buzz is getting softer but more prolonged as they go by. As I write this some time has passed and I looked out and saw a small band of bikers on the wrong side of the road peddling along leisurely so the race must be over, at least for them.
The sounds are changing more people are running and walking by for their exercise. I can hear the sounds of their conversations but not the words. Of course they are in Afrikaans so wouldn’t understand any way. There are some vehicles going by now. The clank of the aluminum poles is indicating that the venders are starting to put up their awning for their booths. Sunday morning is the day for the flea/craft market in King’s Park which is just across the street from us. They are beginning to setup early Sunday morning and tear it down by 4:00 in the afternoon. It has the unusual items such as the native carvings made with the woods of Africa, beaded work, interesting foods and stuff. Some of it would be like a flea market back in the states.
The sun is streaming in the open door off the veranda and it is hot. It was very pleasant this morning but it will get hot as the day rolls along. We visited the friends of the Saupes last evening, who live in P.E., and as we came home at ten thirty the temperature was 21o C (72o F). They had us over for a braai (Bar-B-Q) of unusual meats such kudu, ostrich, and warthog. They were all very good. The kudu was very tender. The piece of wart hog looked like a pork loin and it was very tender. Their braai uses wood. They have short split sticks that they start a fire with to build up a bed of coals. It is very dense wood more like oak but obviously not growing as large as oaks. They add charcoal to help keep the bed of coals going through the cooking process. How much wood versus charcoal has varied over the three braai that I have watched being done. It seemed to vary depending upon how much wood they had. The flavor was indeed enhanced by the use of wood. Some of the meat may have been marinated but most was not and it was excellent. I say good because the meat we had last night was the best that we have had. The meat that we can get in the grocery stores near us is not particularly good. It is tough and a little stringy but last night’s was great.
Classes start with South African music Monday afternoon for most of the students. Since not all of them are taking music class so for them Wednesday will the start. Their service learning times will be on Monday mornings and all day Tuesday but that will start the next week. I have met with nearly all of the instructors that we work with and they appear to be an excellent group. BD
Whew! We have finally met with all of our teachers and with the Aids Haven Director. We still have not met with the Pendla School Principal although we have tried. Today is Saturday and the classes begin Monday! This week we have gone through a full day orientation, an afternoon of getting ID cards and most of a day touring Port Elizabeth, a township and the Red Location Museum. The latter is a museum dedicated to the history of apartheid and the struggle against it. It was quite a heavy trip. Bradley Laveck, our colored tour leader, who helped set up the museum, could talk with experience and passion. The pre-apartheid the world was divided into whites, coloreds and blacks. We will talk more about the field trips and what we saw on our blog.
On part of our touring around we went to the Kragga Kama game reserve. We were divided up into 3 groups got up on flatbed trucks with benches. We started out and saw warthogs, a giraffe family unit, various antelopes (spring bucks, nyala, bontebuck and impala), zebras, and storks, who migrate between Europe and Africa. We went into a special enclosure and saw 8 cheetahs; three young males approached the truck very readily after the guide whistled. The people on the flatbed were told not to stand up as the animals perceive the whole truck as a unit therefore much larger prey than they could handle. We were advised that cheetahs only ate fresh meat, groom each other and had no noticeable smell. This makes them different than lions who eat fetid carcasses and actually stink. But the crowning moment came when we were observing the white rhinos who all blackish but with a square lip (This is the distinction not that they are white.). The male, all ton and ½ of him, came over and rubbed his horn on the side of the truck. The truck jostled a perceptual amount and travellers’ heart rates raised. It was a real thrill! ND
Sunday morning
It is another delightful morning but with one of those surprising happenings that occur when you stay in one place for some time. This morning the city is having bike races/tour along the Beach Road. I do not have a map of the route but the start was some place not far back down the road (maybe at Hobie Beach) and they come by here as part of the route. The first starting group was couples on tandem bicycles; second group must be the racers since they were in a tight, tense group with one brave soul willing to get out in the lead early. They are going in a circuit that takes them past us about every five minutes. There are some hills just up from the beach so they must go up and around the hill and back down to Beach Road for how many kilometers I do not know. I can tell when they are going by because it is like a swarm of soft sounding bees whirling past. With the street blocked off the area is quiet save for the waves breaking on the beach and some bird sounds. It was low tide this morning and the waves were dumping so you would hear the sudden crash as it tumbles over itself.
Port Elizabeth is a very windy city. One hears that Cape Town is windy but so is P.E. and we can confirm it. It was quiet this morning at the start of the race but as I sit at our dining table in the living room looking out on to the Indian Ocean, I can see the wind coming up. It is blowing the spray from the waves back out to sea. I would imagine the racers are not happy for it but those who live here must expect it. The swarm is getting more and more spread out so the angry buzz is getting softer but more prolonged as they go by. As I write this some time has passed and I looked out and saw a small band of bikers on the wrong side of the road peddling along leisurely so the race must be over, at least for them.
The sounds are changing more people are running and walking by for their exercise. I can hear the sounds of their conversations but not the words. Of course they are in Afrikaans so wouldn’t understand any way. There are some vehicles going by now. The clank of the aluminum poles is indicating that the venders are starting to put up their awning for their booths. Sunday morning is the day for the flea/craft market in King’s Park which is just across the street from us. They are beginning to setup early Sunday morning and tear it down by 4:00 in the afternoon. It has the unusual items such as the native carvings made with the woods of Africa, beaded work, interesting foods and stuff. Some of it would be like a flea market back in the states.
The sun is streaming in the open door off the veranda and it is hot. It was very pleasant this morning but it will get hot as the day rolls along. We visited the friends of the Saupes last evening, who live in P.E., and as we came home at ten thirty the temperature was 21o C (72o F). They had us over for a braai (Bar-B-Q) of unusual meats such kudu, ostrich, and warthog. They were all very good. The kudu was very tender. The piece of wart hog looked like a pork loin and it was very tender. Their braai uses wood. They have short split sticks that they start a fire with to build up a bed of coals. It is very dense wood more like oak but obviously not growing as large as oaks. They add charcoal to help keep the bed of coals going through the cooking process. How much wood versus charcoal has varied over the three braai that I have watched being done. It seemed to vary depending upon how much wood they had. The flavor was indeed enhanced by the use of wood. Some of the meat may have been marinated but most was not and it was excellent. I say good because the meat we had last night was the best that we have had. The meat that we can get in the grocery stores near us is not particularly good. It is tough and a little stringy but last night’s was great.
Classes start with South African music Monday afternoon for most of the students. Since not all of them are taking music class so for them Wednesday will the start. Their service learning times will be on Monday mornings and all day Tuesday but that will start the next week. I have met with nearly all of the instructors that we work with and they appear to be an excellent group. BD
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