late night in PE

It is midnight on a Wednesday. The Beach Drive in front of us is pretty quiet…only about 6 cars a minute and few really whizzing along noisily. None of them are Kombis with a men hanging out the window yelling “Down Down”. He is really saying “Town Town” or “Down Town”. We have not been able to ascertain but it is said loudly and with a consistent tone that most of us can now mimic. (Performances on request when we return)

There is a strong wind blowing up the coast and the squiders (the dictionary does not like this word but we do) are exceptionally close in. Ah, the squiders, their boats can be easily discerned by their bright lights which draw in the plankton which attract the squid which are caught and exported to Scandinavia, maybe on the very large transport plane that chugs over the apartment at about 2:30 am each night. I choose to wear earplugs to sleep! We just found out that the squid we eat in the restaurants here is coming from the Falkland Islands. Talk about eating local???

Between these cacophonous interruptions and a couple of groups of people walking and talking below on the street, I can still hear the sound of the gentle waves rolling in on the beach. Opps there goes a siren which is always a bit jarring and someone is blowing his horn. I am sure that if I could take these sounds apart and put them back together in a melodic pattern I would have a musical composition that I could call Sound of Beach Drive.

I often say that going to Mayo was my rather expensive spa treatment….I lost 25 lbs. and got curlier hair….Something here has threatened that progress. I found a man who sells divine fudge and other tasty treats. He was telling me how dark chocolate covering a rose flavoured Turkish Delight was amazingly healthy. He is a merry old gent and has little selling to do to me. He just hands me samples and appears at our Sunday Market which is, sadly, right across the street from us. He should be, at least, several blocks away!

Which brings me to food as most of life does. Since we have been here we have had beef one time. The beef is good but dear in the stores and besides every time we are offered beef or fish we take fish or shrimp or squid or mussels. We have yet to have oysters or crayfish but it will come. We have had lamb and bacon, which is very thick and fatty but at least tastes a bit like bacon. We have some fruit that would surprise, apples, peaches, plums, apricots and pears. We finally found peaches with free stones.

We have, of course, mangoes, prickly pear (an invasive weed here after coming from Mexico hundreds of years ago), great though tiny, pineapple, grapes, melons, and tomatoes.

There aren’t many gardens in the townships but those that are there seem to grow tomatoes and what appears to be Swiss chard. Out in the country there are places where citrus is taking hold. It is apparently profitable.

More later - Norma

The frontier experience

Frontier Weekend - 3/11

Last weekend we drove up to stay with two farm families for a long weekend in the Frontier region. Now this is an area with that name that goes back to early settler times. It is a beautiful area with mountains all around. Here is an excerpt from a tourist blurb on the region.

“A hauntingly beautiful region - arguably the crucible of South African history - Frontier Country is a vibrant mix of all the best that Africa has to offer. One of the premier tourist routes in the Eastern Cape, it has a turbulent past, with more forts than the rest of the country combined.

Now no longer the scene of conflict and strife, it is about people breaking through frontiers. Frontier Country is the historic heartland of the Eastern Cape and embodies the spirit of the many and varied cultures who met here and made their mark - Khoi, Xhosa, Boer and British. …

With Grahamstown at its centre, Frontier Country includes Adelaide, Alicedale, Alice, Bedford, Fort Beaufort, Hogsback, Peddie, Riebeeck East, Salem, Seven Fountains and Sidbury.

Frontier Country is one of the most diverse ecological regions in South Africa, with a variety of biomes that provide unspoilt and spectacular scenery. Thousands of hectares are devoted to nature and game conservation, bringing with them the return of great herds of wildlife to the places where they once roamed freely. This malaria-free region is fast gaining local and international popularity for excellent game-viewing with a variety of private reserves which include the Big Five.”

It was a hot day and the ride up was longer than anticipated because of road construction, which had stoppages that took up to 30+ minutes in some cases. They were working on one side of the road so it became one-way traffic. Because S.A. has so many unemployed, they will often use hand labor where we would use equipment. I thought it was epitomized at one point where they had dumped gravel on to the side of the road to build it up the base. At the end of this line of gravel piles stood one man with a shovel and he was leaning on it. Now I am probably being unfair because they may bring in a grader or cat to push these around because they did have some heavy equipment but … there were a lot of people “doing” stuff. Giving people jobs is a big issue here. Sound familiar!!

The vans were hot and the driver only ran the air conditioner part of the time and never closed his window, when he did have it on. The people in the back of the van were very hot so when we had the long stops we all got out and stood around out of the van. The return trip was nicer because the temperatures were mostly cooler except when we got down in some of the interior valleys where it hit 37^o C or ^o F. It was nice and cool in the mountains at the farms. We could see the fog coming in off the ocean around P.E. so we knew that it would be cooler.

The first farm that we arrived at raised sheep but also has chickens, dairy cows and some wild antelope that they found without their mothers. The farmer raised twenty some dairy cows for milk which he took into a neighboring town and sold it directly to them. He got more money for that amount than if he sold it to a larger milk processing company which took a large chunk of the price and paid him less. The people (the blacks/Xhosa) in the town want this unpasteurized milk because they leave it out and let it sour and the raw milk sours better than the pasteurized. When asked if he was concerned about disease, he said that he was very careful to keep the stock healthy and keep the facility clean. He would not be able to sell in MN since this would be considered raw milk.

We got into bakkies (actually pickups) and headed out on to the property to hike up a large slanted rock face for a great view of the scenery and than down to a reservoir where we swam for an hour or so. Minnesotans certainly took to this activity. They swam, cavorted and in general had a good time. We got back to the farm and they had some snacks ready for us while we waited for a braai (grilling). They gave us some trotters and tripe dish, which was the best tripe I have ever had. I had it one other times but it was not prepared this way and was not a pleasant experience. The food was good and everyone was ready for bed. The largest number went to the next farm where they had the main house, son’s and a guest house where most of us would find a place to sleep. Our bedroom was large and the bathroom and a large tub and shower so we were not cramped. It was so quiet that we slept until after 8:00 and were a little sheepish for being late but most people were not up. Going from hearing virtually nothing to constant traffic and airplanes taking off and landing during the night this was great!

The next morning after breakfast they drove up to nearly the top of rounded peak just over on their neighbor’s property. Many of the students had a race up the hill others stopped at certain points and looked at the view. I walked up through the steeper area. The top had a great view toward the Winterburg Mountains and the valley below. There were a number of wild flowers in the grass so some picked a bouqueae. After taking innumerable pictures with every conceivable view and position, we drove down to a manmade pond for lunch. Later in the afternoon students could relax for it bit in the house that had a tennis court in the back yard. You do not have many places where you can play tennis and have Eland observing. The people said that they did not try to tame him. He just tamed himself. When the ball went over in the Eland’s field, the fella that retrieved the ball did move quickly although the Eland did not appear to get disturbed but the wife said that he might butt. Fortunately there were no butts about it and it was a good time.

I do not have the picture of the first house that we were staying at because it was surrounded with trees and shrubs so there were not good views. That was not the case for the second house. It has quite the garden which will show up in another picture later further on below.







The gardens were quite large and obviously took a great deal of work by someone.











The first farmer took us out on his land to a reservoir. The rock they are jumping on was above the reservoir and had a great view of the surrounding landscape. You can see it in the background. Obviously, Minnesotans know how to enjoy a body of water. As go down these pictures, the landscape on the left shows what the valley look like from that big rock that they are jumping on. the next picture shows the old out buildings and dairy cow. They mostly raise sheep and goats but he keeps some cows for milk that he sells directly in a market. I talked about this above. This first farmer also keeps some eland (picture with the crew feeding it corn) and some kudu as seen in the last picture. It was a very nice stay. I had to put in the trophy room of the second farmer who enjoys hunting and has heads of many different animals that live in the region. It is quite a room.

Grahamstown and further south

We haven’t commented on the weather because it would make you green with envy (and St. Patty’s Day has passed). It has been hot. On the coast the heat is usually moderated but the sun is still the Hot African Sun and if the wind dies down it becomes quite warm…above 90 degrees. Today it is quite lovely with a strong breeze and in the 70’s. Last evening there were two pods of porpoises floating across an artfully painted sunset outside our window. Also the sun glistened against the sails of good sized sailboats that come out for a sail each Wednesday evening.

At our service learning sites the students are settling in nicely. Lots of painting is being done at House of Resurrection. House staff is setting up housing with 6 foster moms and 6 children. Students are also helping the preschool teacher out with her rather large contingent. At Pendla School our students are teaching where they can. The early 2 grades don’t speak English. They are also patching walls and fixing windows. They hope to be working in the library and fix it up. Lastly, Missionvale Care Center, which has medical out reach, food distribution, clothing distribution and a school, has provided an opportunity for the students to get into the Missionvale Township, which interestingly is not listed on Google Maps. They have also worked in the clothing warehouse and the kitchen. And they go and play with the school children during recess at the school. It keeps all of them busy on Monday and Tuesday mornings.

We had a great time visiting Grahamstown and parts south. In Grahamstown we visited a African traditional musical instrument factory. The Hugh Tracey who started the factory was working at saving traditional music and started out recording and in order to support the effort. The man who told us the story, Christian, was knowledgeable in music, the ethnomusicology, the differences between Western and African music and how to play many of the instruments produced there, as well as some brain studies about children who play instruments. They make marimbas, and kalmias which are also call Mbira or “thumb piano”. They also make other instruments for school instruction. A fascinating place to be!

Then we headed south for a visit to Egazini Outreach Project which is an art and craft center run by women from the surrounding townships. Some of women sew, some paint pictures and many cut linoleum for making prints. We met several women there who showed us there very first painting that they had done…and they were beautiful! It was a great effort by those very strong women.

We found another group of strong women in a further southerly direction near the hamlet of Hamburg. Yes, it was founded by Germans although none live there now. We stopped at a small historical building which is now a school and used as an auditorium for events. Nearby the community has constructed a Xhosa rondavel which is a traditional African home made from mud and sticks and in the form of a circle. They displace some traditional works inside the rondavel and other traditions painted on the wall surrounding the building. They did a very attractive job.

We went into the auditorium carrying about 35 Djimbe drums with us that Bradley, our guide supplied us. First of all some girls of the village sang and danced for us. They were in native dress and some had their faces painted. The moms who were laying out food at the back of the room could hardly keep from dancing and singing with the kids. We had a traditional Xhosa meal: barbecued chicken, samp and beans, freshly baked bread and mashed pumpkin. The samp is a bit like hominy and mashed pumpkin is sweet and lovely.

After that with the help of a friend of Bradley’s we learned how to play the drum and how to do a Zulu dance. It was great fun. We came home tired and brim full of rhythm and culture! We will try to get the movie clip on an addition to this site this weekend … I hope.

N

a night on Beach Drive

It is midnight on a Wednesday. The Beach Drive in front of us is pretty quiet…only about 6 cars a minute and few really whizzing along noisily. None of them are Kombis with a men hanging out the window yelling “Down Down”. He is really saying “Town Town” or “Down Town”. We have not been able to ascertain but it is said loudly and with a consistent tone that most of us can now mimic. (Performances on request when we return)

There is a strong wind blowing up the coast and the squiders are exceptionally close in. Ah, the squiders, their boats can be easily discerned by their bright lights which draw in the plankton which attract the squid which are caught and exported to Scandinavia, maybe on the very large transport plane that chugs over the apartment at about 2:30 am each night. I choose to wear earplugs to sleep!

Between these cacophonous interruptions and a couple of groups of people walking and talking below on the street, I can still hear the sound of the gentle waves rolling in on the beach. Oops there goes a siren which is always a bit jarring and someone is blowing his horn. I am sure that if I could take these sounds apart and put them back together in a melodic pattern I would have a musical composition that I could call Sound of Beach Drive.

I often say that going to Mayo was my rather expensive spa treatment….I lost 25 lbs. and got curlier hair….Something here has threatened that progress. I found a man who sells divine fudge and other tasty treats. He was telling me how dark chocolate covering a rose flavoured Turkish Delight was amazingly healthy. He is a merry old gent and has little selling to do to me. He just hands me samples and appears at our Sunday Market which is, sadly, right across the street from us. He should be, at least, several blocks away!

Which brings me to food as most of life does. Since we have been here we have had beef one time. The beef is good but dear in the stores and besides every time we are offered beef or fish we take fish or shrimp or squid or mussels. We have yet to have oysters or crayfish but it will come. We have had lamb and bacon, which is very thick and fatty but at least tastes a bit like bacon. We have some fruit that would surprise, apples, peaches, plums, apricots and pears. We finally found peaches with free stones.

We have, of course, mangoes, prickly pear (an invasive weed here after coming from Mexico hundreds of years ago), great though tiny, pineapple, grapes, melons, and tomatoes.

There aren’t many gardens in the townships but those that are there seem to grow tomatoes and what appears to be Swiss chard. Out in the country there are places where citrus is taking hold. It is apparently profitable.

Norma

ADDO and Schotia pictures

We used this type of vehicle to watch the wildlife in Schotia, which is typical of game drives all over South Africa. The students loved the drivers and seeing all of the wildlife. It was in this area that we saw the white rhino.

Mother elephant was considering if she wanted to cross the road in front of us. She was a little concerned thus ears flapping. Trust me they did flap.

Can you find the Kudu. They are very attractive antelope.

This was a group of blue Wildebeest with young.

This was a young male lion, who was paying very close attention to a female just out of the picture.

Two of these came out of the brush and went around the waterhole and than wandered off between the vehicles. They were not concerned about our presence.

A warthog ... an animal of such beauty that only its mother could love it.

Goony cattle have some very interesting patterns on their hides. The advantage of these beast is that they are resistant to most of the diseases in the region because they were the herds that the natives had at the very beginning.

I think it is safe to stick my neck out and say this is giraffe!! There were a couple in the area.

This is a zebra of course but it is specifically a Burchell's zebra because of the shadow strip just on the white strips. It is not very clear in this pictures but can see it on the hip region. There are two other species in South Africa.

Baby lions are like babies all over. It is time to play and what to they play? Stalking and pouncing on their sibling. Practice starts early.

This is a taste of the pictures I took. It was a great trip. Everyone enjoyed it.